Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts

Sunday, July 10, 2011

White Chuck Mountain

Or as we renamed it.... UpChuck Mountain. White Chuck Mountain is a Class 3 Alpine Scramble. It is a desirable peak to summit because it is about 2,000ft higher than most of the nearby mountains and its prominence leads to incredible views. 


It was aptly renamed as I felt nauseas for most of the climb. Attempting this summit (in the clouds in the center of this photo) was definitely the most terrifying thing I have ever done in my entire life. 


The day was glorious, the sun was shining and even Mt Baker was showing! I felt confident and energized in the morning. The views even from the road were breathtaking - and that is one thing about the North Cascades; you really can't fully understand or even fathom their beauty until you go up high. This is not a place you can truly experience from the valleys below, but a place where their wonder is only evident from up high. 


My new camera has a panoramic setting and I tested it out from the spot we parked. Pretty cool!! 


So we began our trek... supposedly 4 miles round trip (a little more due to the snow on the road) and usually completed in 5-8 hours. 


We saw some bear tracks along the way - side by side Lauren's shoes for comparison. You can see her crampons on her boots as well. 


After a short hike on hard snow we began our assent across a steep talus field still covered in snow - which meant digging in with our crampons and really using our ice axes for safety. There were sections where we had to transition between rock and snow - and crampons on rock are one of the more challenging mountaineering techniques I've even done. We also learned the "veggie" belay - which meant digging your ice ax into the heather and hoping it holds. 


Taking a quick break. 


A view of the false summit after the steep snow slope and slippery rock section. I really should have called it quits right here. 


But we kept going. 


At some point we lost the climbers trail and ended up on a very precarious ledge. I'm not joking when I say one bad step would have been fatal. The rocks we highly metamorphosed, unconsolidated and slatey - everything we were stepping on or holding onto was falling apart. 


At one point our leaders realized that we were on the ledge below the trail and that we needed to go up - but it took over an hour to find stable enough rock to set up a belay and lower a rope. You can see Kevin belaying - he places some protection but was mostly relying on his feet against that boulder. Our leaders climbed up without a belay - there's no way I would have done that!!! 


The summit is at 6989ft - we lunched at around 6800ft. Those are not smiles of joy - they are smiles of "thank goodness we are still alive!" We decided to turn around at that point due to various reasons; inexperienced climbers (this was an experience climb for BASIC students) who were scared out of their minds, it was already 3:30pm, the conditions were terrible, and the snowfield on the summit might have made it unsafe for even experienced mountaineers. 


Our good friend Lauren at lunch. 


And our other fellow Basic climbing student and friend John. I swear if it wasn't for the fact that Ross and John and our leaders held it together and encouraged us on this sketchy mountain I don't think I would have made it down. I fed off their confidence as fake as it may have been. (Everyone admitted once we were down how terrified they were. I'm glad they didn't tell me sooner.) This was scarier than sliding into a crevasse


One spot of the down climb that I felt safe was in this snow moat - where the snow had melted away from the rock.  We thought that we could take a picture with the mountains in the background and pretend it was the summit, but I'm not even pretending we made it. 


Yep, there's the summit over Lauren's shoulder. 


The small White Chuck Glacier. 


Ross on the traverse down. 


We arrived back at our vehicles just after 8:00pm (12 hours later!), desperate to get in touch with our family and friends (i.e responsible party - always leave an itinerary with someone when you venture into the wilderness!!!) to tell them we were safe. 


John had a six-pack of Fat Tire waiting for us in the back of his car - a much welcomed treat after such a treacherous day. 



I took a few last photos through my tear stained glasses as I thanked God for safety in this wilderness and the rugged North Cascades. 

Three redeeming qualities of the day: 
1.) The views were incredible. 
2.) The weather was perfect. 
3.) We're alive. 
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I feel changed. I still feel terrified. Typing this has brought me to tears, my hands are sweating and my heart is still racing. I could have slipped and fell to my death. A scarier thought was the same happening to Ross and losing him. I just kept thinking about all the things we haven't done yet - like see the final Harry Potter movie or have children. That motivated me to keep going. I have our unborn children and Harry Potter to thank for keeping us alive. I'm rambling. 

Will I ever climb a mountain again? Yes. But it will only be ones accessible by class 1 hiking trails. Otherwise, I will enjoy their beauty and respect their jagged peaks from below. I will wait until I have lived a long life and died at an old ripe age and then I will see the summits from the heavens. 

What's the scariest thing you have even done?

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Hangin' Out on a Glacier

This past weekend we went on a field trip with the Bellingham Mountaineers to the Coleman Glacier of Mt Baker to learn how to do a crevasse rescue.


This meant hiking with heavy packs in the snow, then climbing up onto a glacier, finding a crevasse, and then jumping (or carefully sliding) into a crevasse. The picture below shows many cracks and crevasses in the glacier.


Those cracks are dangerous and potentially deadly. Therefore, when you travel on a glacier you travel on a rope team so that if someone were to fall into a crevasse your team could arrest and use the rope to either allow you to prusik yourself out on the rope or to haul you out. 


It was terrifying yet exhilarating; I don't plan on ever being in a crevasse for the rest of my life. This is probably my only chance (because if I'm ever in one again it is because something went wrong). So I gave it a go. 


Thankfully it was gloriously sunny for our crevasse rescue practice! During our run through the day previous it was raining. Rain is the WORST on snow. 


Glacier travel and snow camping - while wicked awesome - is just not my cup of tea. Don't let the thumbs up fool you. I definitely prefer vertical rock and warmer temperatures. The worst thing about snow camping is that everything. gets. soaking. wet. Which adds not only a significant amount of weight to your pack - but also means that you are cold and wet. Maybe if I went later in the season with less snow and warmer temps it would be more enjoyable.


When we were ready to practice I walked to the edge of the crevasse - petrified - and then slid in trusting my teammates to arrest and hold me. They did a wonderful job! 


The view in a crevasse. 


Looking down from where I was hanging. 


Joe, another student, hanging in the crevasse. He was in a really tough (yet very real) situation - his rope became entrenched in the snow on the lip of the crevasse, and it took his team nearly 2 hours to get him out! It really makes you think about how serious you have to take glacier travel. People die in crevasses every year.  


Looking to my left. It was very cold yet oddly peaceful hanging down in there for a while. It was somewhat magical - every once in a while you would hear it creak and moan. The glacier is alive and always moving. 


Ross' student team working through the rescue. 


We found a nice bare bit of basalt to hang out on after our practice, which was glorious because it was so much warmer than to snow and gave my chance to warm up after standing on the snow for so long. 


My domestic partner, Lauren. (We went in on a Costco membership recently.) 


Our tent. A friend of ours loaned us a 3-person 4-season tent for the trip and boy was it a fancy upgrade from our simple 2-person tent! I kind of looks like a hat, no?

It was a long and exhausting trip, and at one point I managed to mess up my knee, which made for a painful hike out. It was pretty swollen, though being able to ice it right in the snow helped a little. It was the first time I've really had to use my first aid kid - though I always carry it. Firstly, because it's smart, secondly, it's the Wilderness First Responder in me. 
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I though I would share a little bit about backcountry eating with you as well  since we're on the topic. Backpacking and mountaineering are times to eat (almost) whatever you want - you need the calories! I didn't take pictures of all our food because my battery was dying and I thought it more important to take pictures in the crevasse. 

When planning food for the backcountry consider foods that are still good even if smashed in your pack. We always pack trail mix, bars, and I love bring along dried apples, pineapple and mangoes to munch on. Sometimes you're working so hard you don't feel hungry, or the elevation can get to you, so it is a good idea to bring things that are really appetizing to you. 


I loved beef jerky when I was a kid, though I gave it up when I was vegetarian for a long time in college. I kinda missed it, however, so I tried this soy jerky I found at our Food Coop - and I really liked it! It went great with some hard smoked cheddar cheese and crackers. 


We've tried the Mountain House freeze-dried meals in a bag but haven't been the biggest fans at all. They don't taste all that great and they are quite expensive, though very lightweight and they won't go bad. 


On a recommendation from Lauren we picked this up as well from the Coop - it runs $1.12 a package and we enjoyed this hot soup tremendously after the cold, wet and rainy day. The flavor was great and I loved that it didn't have MSG in the ingredients list. 


Of course Clif bars, or any sort of bars, are great for backpacking; these especially pack a lot of calories in a bar. The chocolate chip is a great flavor - though I like the banana nut the best. 


This is our usual dessert while backpacking - Justin's Nut Butter in the single serving packages (while I normally swear off anything single serving, but in the backcountry these are the way to go!) 


Would you ever want to summit mountains that involved glacier travel? 

What's your favorite hiking/camping food?